Along with one of the best takes on East-meets-West we have seen in countless seasons, amid the influences of Samurai warriors and geisha girls gone fierce, Proenza Schouler toyed with the concept of “protection” for Fall 2012. What makes you feel more protected – and more tough and powerful – than a great pair of boots?

Their refined army of fighter girls, donning angular and oversized jackets, slouchy trousers, silk-embroidered dresses, and no-nonsense woven leather, had swagger to their runway stomp, and no doubt we have the selection of shoes to thank. The start was high and mighty: glossy riding boots with stitching around the soles and chunky, square heels. Strapped up ankle variations will look painfully cool with girlish miniskirts and ratty jeans shorts alike. But it was the high-heeled ankle boots, some with panels of woven leather in red, blue, or white and just a peek of open-toe, that catapulted the collection over the edge of desirability. Proenza Schouler left me gazing at the shoes with fall fantasies already firmly solidified in my mind.